My first impression of Hua Hin’s main beach was absolutely stunning. It felt like stepping onto a catwalk that stretches endlessly into the distance. The city beach is a long strip (about 5 miles) of narrow sand (160-330 feet wide) with virtually no vegetation. It’s bounded by Takiab mountain (Khao Takiab) to the south and seafood cafés jutting into the sea to the north.
It has scattered infrastructure – sunbeds, umbrellas, cafés, kayak rentals, kite surfing gear – only at public access points to the sea. There are precious few of these in central Hua Hin, just 4 or 5 spots.
Who’s this beach for
Hua Hin’s main beach caters to diverse visitors – from kite surfers and horse riders in different sections to families and couples seeking a classic beach experience. It’s ideal for those who enjoy easy access to urban amenities while lounging on a stunning stretch of coastline.
About the beach
What makes it special
Along the entire length of the beach runs a hodgepodge of hotels and condos, often expensive due to their proximity to the sea, all enclosed behind solid fences. Beach access through their grounds is strictly for guests only. Security guards vigilantly maintain this status quo. The hotels refuse to share even a scrap of shade from their greenery with the public.
This is a local peculiarity, and if you don’t know about it, you’ll find yourself trudging along the scorching main road for several miles before finding a path down to the beach. Incidentally, on the stretch from Condo Chain to Takiab, there are loads of free passages to the sea every few blocks. Sadly, there’s virtually no infrastructure there…
The main tourist hangouts (and services) are as follows: the northernmost point – reached directly by the road from the railway station, Damnitnkasem Rd; the southernmost point – just before Takiab mountain (Khao Thakiab); four access points in the centre; one at Condo Chain; three others before and after the pedestrian crossing to Market Village.
All these spots have much in common but differ in nuances. The beach is sandy throughout, like refined yellow sugar. In the north, the sand is finer and whiter; in the south it seemed a bit grittier, possibly due to flecks of black volcanic sand.
The beach is reasonably clean even in the ‘wild’ areas where there’s no infrastructure or beach vendors. The sea near shore is murky because frequent sharp tides stir up sand from the bottom. But there’s no noticeable silt or stagnant, marshy areas.
In the northern section horse rental dominates, as this is where their stable is located right on the beach. Tourists with sensitive noses might find this spot rather off-putting. The horses do pong a bit. And the sand near the beach entrance is suspiciously damp in any weather.
However, the northern beach is prettier than the others: there are trees providing shade; picturesque boulders scattered along the shore like stage props and photo opportunities. At the exit there’s a basin where you can rinse your feet for 5 baht.
The central section is kitesurfer territory. Here at the approach are at least two specialist schools with European instructors, gear and equipment. The beach also has a volleyball court and boat and banana boat rental.
The southern section, near Takiab, is exotic thanks to the macaques. The beach strip is wider here, so it’s a longer walk to the water’s edge. But along the way you can chat with our ‘ancestors’. They feed on the shore, descending from Takiab – the monkey sanctuary.
They behave quite brazenly and cheekily. The little ones splash about in rock pools, whilst adults keep a beady eye on tourists for any food in their hands. Strangely enough, they usually rob women. They might leap up and snatch a can from your hands. Or climb up your legs like a tree and grab a bun.
Generally, it’s best to keep your distance and admire the ‘ancestors’ through a camera lens, especially if you’re with children. The macaques aren’t aggressive, I should note – just hunger and ignorance of the law drives them to crime.
Getting in the water
If you don’t check the tide calendar for Hua Hin (available online in English), you’ll be in for quite a surprise. The sea lurches about like a drunken sailor; it darts away like a frightened dog. Some days the water’s edge retreats dozens of yards, leaving all the swimmers high and dry.
The seabed slopes gently – you’ll tire yourself out walking just to reach waist-deep water. But during high tides – which are equally rapid – swimming is great fun. You can catch a wave and ride its crest straight into paradise.
On calm days, at 23-33 feet out, the depth is comfortable for swimming. At low tide you won’t have the patience to find optimal depth, and having a proper dip is practically impossible – more like having a wee. At high tide, 10-16 feet from shore reaches chest or even shoulder height for an average person.
You’ll encounter pebbles entering the water at the northern point of the beach. In the central and southern sections it’s all sand.
Waves
The waves knock you off your feet and try to engulf you, but the definite plus of the Gulf of Thailand is that big waves don’t drag you out – quite the opposite, they push you towards shore.
Loungers and shade
Sunbeds and umbrellas (50 baht each) are set out daily at public beach access points. Sometimes, especially in the northern, most crowded section, there aren’t enough for everyone who wants them.
You can sunbathe wild quite happily: entire stretches of the city beach are deserted. But free shade can only be found in the northern section where there are trees. Further along, throughout the entire stretch, there’s no greenery. In the south you can find shade from rocks, but not peace of mind – because of the macaques.
Beach photos
What’s nearby
Food and drink
The city beach is convenient because civilisation awaits you at the exits with all its delights: coffee shops and cafés with proper food, ‘7-Eleven’ shops, supermarkets, and occasionally stalls with fruit and veg, massage parlours.
A stone’s throw from the northern point is a tourist street running parallel to the beach. Here you’ll find European food and beer, restaurants done up like toys, a modest café serving Thai cuisine, art shops and jewellery stores, Indian clothing tailors and estate agents.
Walking north along it, you’ll bump into several fresh seafood cafés perched over the sea. The cheaper, simpler cafés are noisy and crowded, whilst the pricier ones are refined and quiet.
The southern section, Takiab, is interesting for its proximity to the seafood market. The market is to the right of the beach if you’re facing the sea. It’s a short street with a distinctive smell and a row of stalls. In roadside trays lie sea creatures and fish on ice. In aquariums swim live ‘food’ like crabs, prawns and turtles.
There are cafés too where they can grill whatever you point at.
Shopping
The central beach section is attractive for its proximity to Market Village. This is Hua Hin’s best shopping centre where you can relax, dine and stock up on provisions, cosmetics and clothes.
There’s a Tesco Lotus; fast food court; loads of restaurants serving Italian, Thai, Japanese, Turkish and other cuisines; coffee shops; cosmetic boutiques; local brand clothing stores; home goods and electronics markets, cinema, children’s play area. Clean toilets on every floor.
Besides Market Village, the main road is packed with mini-shops, massage parlours, cafés with live music in the evenings.
Activities and attractions
Takiab mountain is a local attraction. It’s easy to climb, including from the beach. The mountain is laced with paths, stairs and rest areas surrounded by lush greenery. Everywhere the ‘ancestors’ will accompany you, hoping for handouts or loot. And the ‘mountain’ tribe, unlike the ‘beach’ one, is more aggressive.
So, passing a small temple complex, you can reach another at the summit – Phra Mae Kuan In, famous for its hordes of macaques. (There’s even a monument to them on the grounds.) Unofficially, this is a Chinese temple of mercy built for ‘those at sea’.
But even if you only climb to the cliff overlooking the beach, you’ll get quite a show: a beautiful view of Hua Hin’s coastline. A city blessed by Buddha.
Where to stay
On the stretch between the main road and city beach, along its entire length, there’s a solid wall of hotels and occasional condos. And where there aren’t any, there will be – mark my words. You won’t find rental houses here. That’s Hua Hin’s specialty. The hotels are pretentious, for well-heeled folks.
There are others that look simpler but still carry hefty price tags. And the condos, especially new ones, are tricky. You can’t rent a unit independently – only through agent middlemen. The exception is probably Condo Chain, 5-7 minutes from the beach.
Granted, this isn’t quite the city centre, it’s further south. You can ask reception about free studio flats. If available, they’ll show you around. Prices vary depending on tourist season. From November to February the condos are packed with tourists despite double prices. From March the condos start emptying and accommodation prices drop (from 10,000 baht/month).
Takiab village is peaceful, fashionable and pricey. There are loads of hotels around the beach, with above-average prices.
Getting there
On foot or by bike from the main Petch Kasem Rd: A) Northern beach point: via the ring road from the railway station, Damnitnkasem Rd. B) Central section: three access points around the Market Village overpass, before and after it. C) South-central: behind the Condo Chain tower block (you can walk through the grounds despite the security guard).
By tuk-tuk or bike along main Petch Kasem Rd: D) Southern point, Takiab: drive straight, past the road junction to the Takiab village tuk-tuk terminus. Here continue straight to the nearest turn towards the sea at the foot of the mountain.
Green route tuk-tuks (10 baht/person) run from the centre to Takiab village. From the tuk-tuk terminus to the beach is a 10-15 minute walk.
Beach location
Hua Hin’s main beach is a spectacular 5-mile stretch of coastline running through the heart of the city. It’s bounded by Takiab mountai
