The still-undeveloped and largely tourist-free eastern side of Koh Phangan is full of surprises, offering unexpectedly beautiful and secluded beaches. Ao Thong Nai Pan Yai is one of these hidden gems, tucked away in a bay between steep, impassable cliffs, nestled at the foot of rolling hills. This crescent-shaped shoreline, surrounded by lush greenery, is home to a few small resorts, bars, and traditional longtail boats.
Beach Overview
Unlike its smaller neighbor, Thong Nai Pan Noi, which lies just 330 feet (100 meters) north over the hill, Thong Nai Pan Yai is a shallower beach but equally appealing for those seeking relaxation.
Due to its remote location, this beach isn’t suited for quick day trips to “arrive, sunbathe, and leave.” It’s better enjoyed as a place to settle in for your entire vacation—offering safety, tranquility, and the chance to truly unwind.
Ao Thong Nai Pan Yai features about 2,625 feet (800 meters) of wide, grayish-yellow sand mixed with small shell fragments. When dry, the sand takes on a nearly white appearance. During high tide, the beach is around 65 feet (20 meters) wide, expanding to 130–165 feet (40–50 meters) at low tide, especially at the edges.
Facing the sea, a small river lies on the left side of the beach, separating it from Klang Cape. On the right, the beach meets the largely undeveloped Tam Thong Rak Cape. The gently curving shoreline, with its mild slope and absence of concrete seawalls or breakwaters, maintains a pristine, natural beauty that’s rare in more developed areas.
Swimming
The water entry at Thong Nai Pan Yai is gradual and smooth. On calm days, the rock-free bottom is clearly visible. Large boulders are scattered in the bay’s center, and the water gets shallower toward the beach’s edges.
To the right, the seabed is rockier, while the left side has more sand brought down by the river. There are no significant waves here, creating a serene atmosphere. On average, the water reaches about 3 feet (1 meter) in depth roughly 50-65 feet (15-20 meters) from the shore.
Sunbeds and Shade
Thong Nai Pan Yai beach offers plenty of natural shade, thanks to the trees that line the entire shoreline. After noon, the sun begins to dip behind the hills, and the shadows of the palm trees stretch out along with the retreating tide. Since this is the east coast, you’ll only be without shade in the morning hours—by midday, the beach is comfortably shaded.
There aren’t any sunbeds for rent directly on the beach, but many are available at the hotels and beachside restaurants. Typically, if you order a cocktail for around 100-150 baht, you can relax on a sunbed for as long as you like.
Beach Photos
Amenities
The main road runs about 500-650 feet (150-200 meters) from the shore, so most of the buildings at Thong Nai Pan Yai are located between the road and the sea. In the central and left areas (when facing the water), the infrastructure extends past the road, where you’ll find resorts, bars, restaurants, rental shops, and even a small 7-Eleven.
To the right of the center, beyond the road, there’s nothing but jungle, while the buildings remain closer to the beach. The entire area is a maze of narrow concrete lanes offering various tourist services.
Overall, the area isn’t heavily developed—it doesn’t compare to the busier areas like Chaloklum or, of course, Thong Sala. But that’s part of its charm, making it ideal for a peaceful, quiet getaway.
If you’re in the area, don’t miss the viewpoint with a bar on the right side of the beach, up on the hill. It offers stunning views of the coastline.
Accommodation
As I mentioned earlier, most of the accommodations are built along the shoreline, with only a few guesthouses located near or beyond the main road.
Unlike Thong Nai Pan Noi, this beach doesn’t have many high-end hotels, but there are still some good options to choose from:
- The Great Escape Chalets
- The Residence – Serviced Apartments
- Havana Beach Resort
- Dreamland Resort (3 stars)
- PingChan Koh Phangan Beachfront Resort
How to Find the Beach
Heading from Thong Sala along the southern coast of Phangan, you’ll reach a fork in the main road. Just after the roads merge again, you’ll see a 7-Eleven mini-market. That’s where you need to turn left. From there, just follow the signs straight ahead without turning. The road is new and wide, but there are lots of twists, turns, and hills, so take it slow and stay alert. Thai roads can be tricky, with slippery patches from leaves, sand, snakes, water, or oil.
When we drove here with friends, we hit some sand that had been washed into a dip in the road. When my friends braked, their scooter skidded and tipped over. We ended up in the hospital, and the bill for cleaning the wounds was 1,500 baht. Plus, it meant no swimming for a week.
By the way, we also tried to take a boat from this beach to Bottle Beach, but it didn’t work out. First, the boatman asked for 1,600 baht, and then he changed his mind and decided not to go at all.
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