Many travelers rave about Leela Beach, often claiming it’s one of the most stunning spots on Phangan, if not the absolute best. Personally, though, I wasn’t as impressed. It’s certainly beautiful, but does it deserve the title of “the best”? Not in my opinion.
Perhaps part of the reason is that the beach is a little harder to reach, or maybe the overall atmosphere just didn’t click with me. It might also be because I visited Phangan at the end of the rainy season, and with the weather being less than perfect, the experience felt a bit subdued. After all, cloudy skies don’t exactly help set the tropical mood!
Beach Overview
Leela Beach is tucked away at the base of a steep slope that runs along its entire length. It’s not the kind of beach where you can simply pull up, hop off your scooter, and dive into the water.
When I visited Phangan, the monsoon season had just ended, and the road leading down to the beach was in pretty rough shape.
At one point, I had to leave my bike behind and walk the rest of the way. But don’t worry—there’s an easier way to get there, which I’ll explain in the “How to Find the Beach” section.
The beach itself is undeniably beautiful, stretching about 500 meters (1,640 feet) from cliffs on the north to cliffs on the south. After spending some time here, I’d say Leela Beach is ideal for a quiet, laid-back, hippie vibe, but probably not the best choice for a family vacation.
I wouldn’t recommend staying here long-term with kids. It’s better suited for a quick visit—maybe spend a couple of hours swimming, relaxing, and enjoying the scenery. One thing Leela Beach has going for it is its southwest-facing location, which offers stunning views of Koh Samui on the horizon.
Swimming
Cocohut Beach Resort & SPA is conveniently located right on the beach, with a parking area that makes it easy to get to the sea.
The sand here is “almost white,” which is typical for Phangan. In the water, you’ll find small pebbles and shells, washed ashore by the waves. The entry into the sea is gentle and gradual, but whether it’s good for swimming depends heavily on the tides.
Scattered along the shore are large boulders, some of which are the size of small houses. It’s fun to see them alongside the simple cottages tucked behind the rocks and low, twisted trees, perfect for tourists seeking a quiet, hermit-like retreat. As for swimming, the conditions are pretty consistent throughout the beach—there aren’t significant differences in swimming spots.
Sunbeds and Shade
Along the entire shoreline, you’ll find low, twisted trees—not mangroves, though, as they lack the typical mangrove roots. These trees provide plenty of natural shade, and some even have swings and hammocks hanging from their branches. It’s a perfect spot for bungalow guests to relax or nap in the gentle breeze.
The rest of the narrow shoreline is lined with bungalows. And “narrow” is the key word here. During low tide, there’s a decent stretch of sand to enjoy, but at high tide, the water reaches right up to the trees, leaving little to no room for a walk along the beach.
Beach Photos
The left side of the beach near Coco Hut Village
The left and central areas near Leela Beach Resort
Amenities
The infrastructure at Leela Beach is pretty minimal. There’s a long row of simple wooden bungalows, a large empty lot with noisy construction, and Cocohut Beach Resort & SPA, which offers a restaurant and direct beach access.
Just around the corner, past the rocks on the northern end of the beach, you’ll find the Light House bar, a local landmark. For anything beyond that, you’ll need to head over to Haad Rin.
There are no shops—not even small ones—on Leela Beach. It’s a truly secluded part of Phangan, where people live in basic bungalows (some with gaps in the walls), and spend their days smoking, drinking, practicing yoga, meditating, or napping in hammocks—basically living the dream of any overworked office employee.
Leela Beach is close to the famous Haad Rin, known for its legendary Full Moon Parties. Meanwhile, the Light House bar hosts its own techno parties once a week. Although the music can be loud, the bar is tucked behind the cliffs, so the noise doesn’t disturb beachgoers looking for peace and quiet.
Accommodation
When I first arrived at Leela Beach in January 2017 (on the far left side), a new resort was under construction. The area was a full-blown construction site—heavy machinery, piles of debris, and part of the shore littered with trash, likely left over from a recent flood. The beach itself was dug up and uncomfortably noisy.
The rest of Leela Beach is surrounded by a palm-filled jungle, with only a couple of resorts: Cocohut Beach Resort & SPA, which is fairly decent, and Leela Beach Bungalows, a more basic option with a low rating. The latter looked a bit shabby, like it had been thrown together without much care.
Further to the left, beyond a rocky headland, is Lighthouse Bungalows & Restaurant, famous for its weekly techno parties. Overall, Leela Beach is great for those looking for peace and a rugged, untamed island vibe. But for me, it felt a little too wild.
How to Find the Beach
To get to Leela Beach, you can search for Cocohut Beach Resort & SPA on the map or follow the road signs—it’s the first place you’ll come across when driving from Haad Rin.
The road leading to the resort is in good condition, and you’ll need to take a left turn to enter. There’s no reason to drive past the resort along the dirt roads unless you’re heading to the Lighthouse. From the resort, you can easily access the beach and walk along the shore, either to the right or left, to find a shady spot under the trees.
Another option is to follow the signs for “Lighthouse,” which will take you to the far left (northern) end of the beach. Near a charming wooden bridge that hugs the rocks towards the Lighthouse, you’ll find a small parking area where you can leave your bike. Just keep in mind that the parking is at the bottom of a steep hill, so take care. All paths down to Leela Beach are fairly steep, so it’s something to be aware of.
You can also approach the beach from the middle, where a few roads lead to Leela Beach Resort. It’s not the most straightforward option, as it’s easy to get lost, but the road is still passable if you’re up for the adventure.
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